Tonga soa ... Welcome!! So you’re moving to Madagascar... Madagasikara! Soava dia! Have a good journey !!

Contents
Geography History Language Safety Weather Media and Communication Antananarivo Water and Electricity	A Naturalist's Paradise Housing Furniture and Appliances Domestic Staff Schools Clubs Embassy Shopping	Restaurants Hotels Vehicles Licences Religion Currency Corruption

Congratulations and Welcome!
You are embarking on an unforgettable journey to one of the most exotic and exciting countries in the world. Madagascar is not Africa but unique in it’s own right. Your memories of this extraordinary country and its peoples will be vivid and with you for the rest of your life. Nothing is monochrome on this huge Indian Ocean island where the colours of everyday life are both brilliant and sometimes very blue. Never boring, Madagascar will richly reward the curious and can drive those seeking normalcy right up the wall.

The profound veneration of the Malagasy for their ancestors, the closeness of the former to the latter, are an extraordinary trait. This attachment to the ancestors coupled with a deep love and respect for their children, this orientation toward both the past and the future, seems to give the Malagasy a serene tranquility and sense of continuity in life. Armed with patience, a little humour and a few words of Malagasy you will find the people invariably courteous and hospitable. You should certainly remember this in your dealings with the local bureaucracy!

Hilary’s Bradt’ s Guide to Madagascar is essential reading for those interested in knowing more about this fascinating country.

The aim of this information is to make those moving to Madagascar more aware of typical problems that can be encountered and overcome in day to day life and is perhaps more useful to those who will be residing in Antananarivo (normally referred to as "Tana"). Let us presume that your company has already found you accommodation in an expatriate-type area and that it is ready for your occupation.

Geography
Two and a half times the size of Great Britain and a little smaller than Texas, Madagascar is the world's fourth largest island, after Greenland, New Guinea and Borneo. Located 250 miles off the south-east coast of Africa, the island extends 1,000 miles in length and 360 miles at its largest width.

The island can be divided into three main parts: the East Coast, a narrow coastal strip abutting the steep slopes of the North-South mountain range, home of the rain forest; the Central Highlands, averaging 2500 to 4500 feet in altitude and culminating at 9430 feet, decorated with immense rice fields; and the West Coast, home of the baobabs and thorny forest.

History
Madagascar was first sighted but the Europeans (the Portuguese) in 1500, but there were Arab settlements from about the 9th century. It was united under one monarch from the early 19th century, a time of British influence under the London Missionary Society. It became a French colony in 1896 and regained independence in 1960.

Language
Fourteen million Malagasy inhabit Madagascar. Exactly how and when the early Malagasy discovered and settled the island is not known. They have a dual Indonesian and African origin, attested by their physical features, language, agricultural practices, and customs. In spite of their diversity, they are united by a common language called Malagasy, rooted in the ancient Malayo-Polynesian, ancestor of the tongues spoken in the vast area bounded by Hawaii, the Tuamotu and Madagascar. The modern language has been enriched by words imported from Bantu tongues, Swahili, Arabic, English and French. French is the language of commerce and business today although English is increasingly understood and spoken in the cities and tourist areas.

Safety
Madagascar is generally an extremely safe country and certainly safer than almost any other African country. In fact it is one of the few developing countries that has not suffered tribal unrest. There is no evident ethnic majority in Madagascar and this has nurtured a relatively patient attitude towards politics and politicians. The country enjoys one of the highest literacy rates in Africa and this too owes credence to a generally safe society. However Tana is a different story. The burgeoning rural population encourages the young to throng the pavements of gold and unemployment has become unacceptably high for both the work-hungry and those who are not. Although muggings are occasional only, it is sensible, for example, not to wear a visible watch while driving in the not-so-friendly parts of town: that watch could feed a snatch-and-grabber for a month or two. And the same goes for jewelry. In short it pays to be paranoid.

Weather
A tropical climate with rain falling in the hottest season, coinciding with the northern hemisphere winter. The average amount of rainfall varies greatly by region: the wettest area in the east averages 355cm annually; in the dry zone (southwest) the annual average is 30cm (12 ins). It is hot and humid in low-lying areas. Temperatures can very low in Antananarivo and close to freezing in the extreme south during the coldest month of June.

Media and Communication
The 3 main French language daily newspapers are the Midi, Express and Tribune. Politically they are all coming from different angles but you can say they are now untainted by government control which is a credit to the new regime’s democratic aspirations. A recent arrival on the scene is an English language paper called Madagascar News which is aimed at the increasing number of non Francophone expatriates as well as the great interest in learning English among the Malagasy.

There are plenty of internet cafes springing up and competition between the 3 Internet Service Providers is bringing connection costs down. The national telecommunications utility, Telma, is slated for privatization but has certainly improved it ’s service in recent years. New installations still require plenty of persistence and patience. For international calls Telma now has to compete with 3 mobile operators, Orange and Madacom and Intercel (analogue), so costs are coming down but are still exorbitant compared to Europe and the US. If you bring your GSM phone from abroad you can find specialists who will unblock it at very competitive rates to work on the local networks.

The FM radio airwaves are clogged with stations. The good news is that the BBC , VOA and RFI are also on FM.

Quality of local TV is average to poor and most expatriates tend to subscribe to a satellite service. French speakers are very well catered for with 3 operators present: Canal Satellite, TVF and Parabole Madagascar. English speakers must rely on the only English language service provider which is DSTV (BBC, CNN, Discovery, National Geographic and around 50 other channels) and sadly a lot more expensive than the French language services.

Antananarivo

The name means “The Town of a Thousand” in Malagasy. Antananarivo is the seat of government, the major manufacturing centre and commercial hub. Like in so many cities in developing countries rapid population growth and poverty means the infrastructure is creaking under the pressure of congestion, pollution and petty crime. At the same time “Tana” still retains an old world feel with traditional Malagasy and French colonial architecture giving it a unique charm. You do not find the large skyscrapers and ugly tenement blocks that blight so many cities in Africa. The municipal authorities are also energetically cleaning the town up and after years of neglect it has taken on a new luster in the last few years.

Water and Electricity
The national utility, Jirama, provides water and electricity throughout the country. The voltage is 220v and sockets / plugs follow the French model. In Tana the electricity supply is very reliable and black outs only occur during the cyclone season. Supply tends to be quickly restored. Outside the capital the picture isn’t so impressive. A voltage regulator / surge protector is recommended for sensitive appliances i.e. TV’s, Computers.

Water supply is not a problem in Tana with only rare cuts in supply. Outside Tana the situation is mixed. Although the water is treated it is not recommended to drink without boiling first. Mineral water is readily available in most retail outlets.

A Naturalist's Paradise
Most of the island’s plants and animals (think lemurs !) are unique to Madagascar and new species are still being found by scientific teams that go there. Of the native plants 80% are endemic. All the mammals are endemic, excluding those introduced by man; and half of the birds and well over 90% of the reptiles are found nowhere else. The incredible number of unique species is due to the island’s early separation from the African mainland some 165 million years ago, and to the recent arrival of man (around 2,000 years ago).

Housing
Adequate expatriate housing in 2003 is a little more plentiful and less expensive than before. It is not easy to find exactly what you want in Tana. There are only 2 parameters that govern house or apartment hunting in Madagascar and they are:
Location and Commute
Rent

Although several Real Estate Agencies can now be found in Tana, much of the housing is available through referrals and word of mouth. No doubt your company has contacts that will yield some properties to inspect.

As a rule of thumb, suitable apartments range from US$700 - 1,000 per month with houses ranging from $1,000 to $2,500 and upwards in the “diplomatic” suburb of Ivandry. Remember that these prices do not include appliances, electricity costs and most-times, security guards. It is essential to have security guards as pilferage and theft is a major concern.

It is important to try to pay as little in advance as possible which might encourage the tenant to undertake repairs should anything go wrong during the term of the lease.

Furniture and Appliances
Simple locally manufactured and imported furniture is available in Tana. Neither design nor quality is remarkable and you may find that doors and drawers warp because of the high humidity, but they serve their purpose. 220V appliances are available, quite expensive, mostly, of lower quality and of questionable origin although the recent arrival of foreign retailers has certainly brought quality levels up. Remember that in many cases, large refrigerators and stoves do not fit into the niches provided in some kitchens and washer/dryers are a mixed blessing. If you elect to bring sensitive appliances i.e. TV’s, make sure you purchase stabilizer and surge protectors before you leave.

Domestic Staff
It is common to employ house staff, cooks, gardeners and security guards. Salaries are extremely reasonable and they add greatly to the quality of life overseas. Those expatriates who are leaving Madagascar always try to find good employment for their reliable staff after their departure and you should have no problem finding recommended help with good references. Nannies are wonderful with children.

Schools
There are several foreign schools in Madagascar, principally in Tana. They are namely the American School of Antananarivo, the French Lycee and primary schools and the Alliance Française. It is important to apply as early as possible for admission to these schools to get the best streaming for your child. In addition, don't forget to submit copies of your child's school reports. Your embassy or High Commission will assist you with introductions.

Clubs
Clubs and Sporting Clubs are quite popular in Madagascar and form the principal avenues of the social life for many expatriate. The year-long sunshine encourages participatory sports such as Tennis, Golf, Laser Yachting and horse riding. There is only one Golf club and it will pay to know an existing member to gain membership.

Embassy Registration
It's always a good idea to register with your Embassy or High Commission as soon as you arrive in Madagascar. Not only is it appreciated by the mission, but also a good way to meet other nationals at the drink parties that are held from time to time. Most of the diplomatic missions are fairly laid-back in Tana and are much more helpful than in other larger countries.

Shopping
With the advent of French and South African retailers Madagascar is not the “bare cupboard” it once was. It still pays to bring luxury and sports goods within your removal. Local fruit and vegetables are available everywhere in abundance. Where else in Africa outside South Africa can you find locally produced pate de foie gras and locally produced wine?

Restaurants
You are in luck here as Madagascar has certainly inherited the French attitude to good eating. Along with numerous French restaurants you will find Italian, Chinese and even Malagasy cuisine. Lively bistros and nightclubs are also mushrooming in the capital. Beers, local and a variety of imported are freely available as are most liquors in restaurants and grocery stores.

Hotels
The three main quality hotels in Tana are the Hilton , Hotel Colbert and Hotel du Louvre (ex. Hotel Ibis). The former is self contained with more of a western modern feel to it with a swimming pool , sports club and tennis courts. Those looking for a little more old style ambience will prefer the Hotel Colbert which is in the old colonial upper town. It has recently been extended and modernized and has a business centre and sports club. Remember that international telephone calls are very expensive from hotels here so it will pay to sign up to a local mobile phone provider on your arrival. There is a huge drop in quality if you wish to find a cheaper alternative to the above hotels.

Vehicles
Do keep in mind that in Madagascar, we drive on the right side of the road so make sure you bring a LHD vehicle. 4WD Japanese vehicles are advised as they will more likely find buyers on your departure and many service parts can be sourced locally. At the same time older second hand French/German petroleum engine vehicles i.e. Peugeot 405 / VW Golf 2 are perfectly adequate if you don’t intend any serious travel around the country. Try to avoid gasoline/petrol engine 4WD models as Diesel fuel is much cheaper here and also the perception is that Diesel vehicles are more robust. Non diplomat and non NGO shippers must have owned the vehicle for at least 12 months overseas in order to gain duty free franchise.

Driving Licenses
You will be allowed to drive with an International driving license (available from your local Automobile Club) for the period of time that it will take you to become an "official" resident of . Once you are a resident, you will have to go through the tedious process of obtaining a Madagascar driving license although in practice many expatriates continue to use their own national licence for the duration of their stay.

Religion
Christianity is the main organized religion, with the Protestant and Catholic churches predominating. Islam and Hinduism are also practiced, mainly the by Comorian and Asian communities, but for many Malagasy their own from of ancestor worship is a very important influence in their lives.

Currency Exchange
The Malagasy Franc is now a floating currency meaning but exchange must be made through banks or an approved Bureau de Change. As of August 2003 the currency will be known as the Ariary and denominations will change. Credit cards are accepted at several hotels and better restaurants but few other establishments.

Corruption
The good news is that Madagascar is making a concerted effort to clean up it’s act and the new government is clamping down on corruption in the civil service. We all know of course that “Rome wasn’t built in a day’ and it will take time to streamline bureaucracy and change old attitudes. In the meantime resist the temptation to give in to bureaucratic obstructionism and you may be surprised at the outcome. You can show your gratitude but get the paperwork or stamp first. Above all try not to lose your cool!

And Finally....

With a little good humour, all the above peculiarities can be amusing. There is so much else that is intriguing about the country that you can be kept engrossed indefinitely. Adventure and kindness are the hallmark of lifetime memories for all who live and work in this beautiful country.